Traditional acrylics are one of the most popular types of nail extensions. We’ve seen them on Flo-Jo, Lil’ Kim and, at an extreme, the beauty community of Newark’s Long Nail Goddesses. From their customizable shape and thickness, to their long-lasting durability, acrylics are a beauty standard in the nail world. That is, until they have to come off.
“Acrylics always have the chance to damage the nail especially if the application isn’t correct,” nail artist Kinaya Haug tells ESSENCE. While heavy-duty nails may be your preference, they’re less flexible than other extensions and require routine fill-ins, which puts your natural nail at risk. “The thickness and where you apply the majority of the acrylic can cause them to break in a spot that may affect your nail.”
Nevertheless, minimizing damage after they’re drilled off is still in the cards. As the nail artist behind some of Sha’carri Richardson’s game-changing talons, Haug breaks down how to retain your nail length—and strength—after your acrylics are removed.
How harmful are acrylic nails?
You may feel attached to your acrylic nails, but it is important to know how they impact your natural nail. Acrylics are applied onto a buffed nail with a mix of powder and liquid monomer, shaped onto your nails with a brush, then air-dried. However, “over-buffing the natural nail can affect your nail health when the acrylic is removed,” Haug says.
Although acrylics are more heavy-duty than Gel-X and press-ons, this does not mean you shouldn’t exercise caution. “If you are hard on your nails or use your nails as tools they will definitely damage your natural nail.”
What should you avoid when removing acrylics?
While removing acrylic requires both drilling and soaking, the hidden threat is not just thinning nails, but the chemicals emitted. “If you file a lot before soaking, wear a mask because the particles are dangerous for your body,” she says. “Protect yourself because a lot of nail salons still use MMA (methyl methacrylate) which is a toxic ingredient banned in the United States and is harder to remove because it has a slimy, jelly consistency.”
How often should you get acrylics to avoid nail damage?
“Nail cycling” is a common practice used to give your natural nails a “break” between sets. However, Haug debunks it as a requirement. “I have tons of clients who never take a break with their nails and come back every two weeks consistently,” she says. “Their nails are healthy because they maintain their nails by coming back before they break.”
She warns, “if you get acrylics, make sure to book follow up appointments because once your nails start growing they have more of a risk of breaking and damaging your nails.”
How do you rebuild your nail length and strength after removal?
After your acrylics are removed, your nails may feel more thin and weak than when they were first applied. “I stand by the fact that I’ve seen people’s natural nails grow to the lengths they wouldn’t if they had acrylics on just by coming in consistently for builder gel manicures,” she says, which is a light layer of hard gel to protect the natural nail.
“If you’re the type of person that doesn’t want anything on your nails but you want strength and length, I would suggest either taking supplements that assist nail growth and strength or applying a nail strengthener and being very gentle with your hands.”
What is a healthier alternative to acrylic extensions?
“I just started using Gel-X tips because my friend Weenay has so many clients that have good turnouts with them and I’m loving them so far,” Haug says. The first and only soft gel nail extension system on the market, Aprés Gel-X tips are lightweight, ultra-thin, and durable which feeds into the no-nicure trend.
“They don’t have the chemical smell that affects our bodies, they don’t break the same way so your nail is a little safer, they’re faster, which both me and my clients love, and they stay on the same amount of time,” she says. “They’re the new hot thing and I like them a lot so far.”