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Home • Beauty

4C FILES: From Pain to Passion

This New Orleans–based celebrity hairstylist rose above hair bullying, turning her struggle into a dream career
4C FILES: From Pain to Passion
Ashanti Lation
By Ashanti Lation · Updated June 20, 2024

This story originally appeared in July/August 2024 issue of ESSENCE magazine, on newsstands June 25.

My hair journey is a testimony in itself. I’ve navigated various stages of confusion, ultimately ending at self-love. But growing up, I struggled to understand the unique beauty of my hair. All of my cousins had what was considered “good hair.” Meanwhile, mine was dry, short and kinky.  

I remember my grandmother took us to the hairdresser one year, just before we took Christmas pictures. The stylist jokingly asked her colleague, “What happened to this one? She’s the only one with nappy hair.” She proceeded to burn out a section of my hair—and tried to cover it with a ponytail after pressing it. When I told my grandmother, she went off on that lady; and we never went back. However, sadly, I internalized what she’d said and began to wish I had different hair.  

Thankfully, my grandmother was always telling me that my skin and hair were beautiful. And surrounding myself with positive influences who celebrated Black hair helped me embrace mine. Through this, I would learn to appreciate my hair as an extension of my identity and cultural heritage.  

My desire at 14 to become a hairstylist—a career that has earned me clients such as Normani and Latto—was deeply rooted in my wanting to love my hair. I started combing it in fourth grade, because I didn’t like how my mom did it. Then I started styling my family and friends’ hair. By the time I was in high school, I had a full client roster—and began to think maybe I could do this professionally. 

For me, it wasn’t just about mastering technical skills: I was drawn to the idea of making people feel beautiful. I was on a mission to make confidence and pride synonymous with Black hair—especially because, back then, there weren’t many products and tutorials to educate us. 

As someone who has experienced firsthand the challenges and misconceptions associated with type 4 hair, I am passionate about greater visibility and representation for folks with coily, kinky and tightly curled textures. This hair type is often portrayed as difficult to manage or less desirable, compared to others. I beg to disagree.  

One of the many ways I show my hair some love is through my personal hair care routine. It revolves around nurturing and nourishing my strands, from the inside-out. I’m anemic, so I prioritize consuming a balanced diet rich in iron. In terms of products, I gravitate toward salon-grade items with high quality ingredients. I developed my own product line, VIP Luxury Hair Care, for that exact reason. 

Above all, consistency is key. I make sure to cleanse and condition my hair regularly, so it stays hydrated and manageable. I also incorporate deep-conditioning masks—and occasional protein treatments—to maintain optimal hair health and strength. Styling-wise, I prefer low-manipulation hairdos that minimize tension. This includes sew-ins, braids and buns. 

Born and raised in NOLA, I know that managing 4C hair in the humid heat of July requires some strategic planning and care as well. If you’re planning your trip for the upcoming ESSENCE Festival of Culture, my first piece of advice for protecting your tresses is to stay hydrated. Drink plenty of water, and use hair care products that lock in moisture and combat dryness. Secondly, opt for protective styling, like braids, twists or updos, to keep your hair off of your neck and minimize the effects of the heat. 

Don’t be afraid to refresh and revive your ’do on the go. Keep a spray bottle filled with water and your favorite leave-in conditioner handy to combat heat-related dryness. This could also be a time for you to embrace the wash-and-go. Use a lightweight styling product to define your curls and enhance their natural texture.  

You can also protect your hair from the sun’s harmful rays by wearing a hat or scarf when you’re outdoors for extended periods. This not only shields your hair from UV damage but helps keep it cool and protected from environmental stressors. And on the note of scarves, remember to always wear one at night, to further safeguard your strands from breakage. After all, your hair is your crown. I firmly believe that every texture is beautiful and worthy of protection and celebration. 

TOPICS:  Ashanti Lation
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